I am reading and rereading this 2016 publication because it is an extraordinary view behind the scenes of 30 out of 36 of McQueen's shows and it is from a fantastic photographer's perspective. How does Robert Fairer manage to take these unique photos? How does he make models step out of their mannequin stance and look at him and us, the readers? How did he get to those shows and meet the right people to eventually work for American Vogue? How does a book become a way of preserving McQueen's legacy, as he so wished, and how did the photos come to be so well supported through such an informative, yet concise Preface by Sally Stringer, contextual setting: Directing The Eye by Claire Wilson, Fairer's map of the photographer's journey: Capturing The Unseen, detailed notes on the collections, further resources and an extensive index? Three main themes recur throughout the 351 pages: 1) Fairer's early interest and ongoing passion for finding the story and capturing it in images organized to tell it, 2) life long practise of the techniques (lighting, editing, finding unique locations, being there unobtrusively) 3) building respectful, collaborative relationships. People invite him to take photos, buy and collect his work, write with him, and communicate with him for his camera and for the photos that make this one, a comprehensive description not only of the fashion genius that was Alexander McQueen, but also extensive evidence of the wonderful eye that was watching.
Fairer references the change from film to digital, increased access to the shows, which went from private salons to public runways, the increase in photographers from one expert to a team, from the edge of the stage, to the pit, to the highly sought back stage access. That privilege and definite advantage became his exclusively. But imagine the pressure to get the best shots, and find the layers of story, of culture, of history, of the "terrible beauty" of nature and the world. Capture it and get it out there immediately.
My eye is drawn to the powerful hands of the models. These are hands that can hold weapons and give orders. Hands of the hairdressers and make-up artists, work deftly and create real characters that look out at you from the page. Hands of the makers, the sewers, the set designers, and those of McQueen, himself as he is rushing around purposefully, engrossed in his vision. My eye is drawn too, to the eyes, made up, feathered, exaggerated, all looking ahead to the runway, yet always some that look back at the photographer. We see you and we know you'll make us look great.
And so, to the relationships that Fairer has worked hard to make and keep. He begins with his father, who he credits for encouraging Fairer's interest in technology - the tools of his trade. His wife, introduced him to fashion shows and has been a partner every step of the way. The models are his friends. So this is not only a very important historical record of the tremendous talent of Alexander McQueen, it is also a very important map of how a photographic journey is magnificent but not lightly taken.
There is much more here that must be seen and savoured. Fairer's Alexander McQueen Unseen, is a reference book that should grace the tables of all of the design and photography colleges and universities. A documentary beginning with the book and having the scenes unfold from that, would be fantastic. Meanwhile you should open it up for yourself.
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Fairer references the change from film to digital, increased access to the shows, which went from private salons to public runways, the increase in photographers from one expert to a team, from the edge of the stage, to the pit, to the highly sought back stage access. That privilege and definite advantage became his exclusively. But imagine the pressure to get the best shots, and find the layers of story, of culture, of history, of the "terrible beauty" of nature and the world. Capture it and get it out there immediately.
My eye is drawn to the powerful hands of the models. These are hands that can hold weapons and give orders. Hands of the hairdressers and make-up artists, work deftly and create real characters that look out at you from the page. Hands of the makers, the sewers, the set designers, and those of McQueen, himself as he is rushing around purposefully, engrossed in his vision. My eye is drawn too, to the eyes, made up, feathered, exaggerated, all looking ahead to the runway, yet always some that look back at the photographer. We see you and we know you'll make us look great.
And so, to the relationships that Fairer has worked hard to make and keep. He begins with his father, who he credits for encouraging Fairer's interest in technology - the tools of his trade. His wife, introduced him to fashion shows and has been a partner every step of the way. The models are his friends. So this is not only a very important historical record of the tremendous talent of Alexander McQueen, it is also a very important map of how a photographic journey is magnificent but not lightly taken.
There is much more here that must be seen and savoured. Fairer's Alexander McQueen Unseen, is a reference book that should grace the tables of all of the design and photography colleges and universities. A documentary beginning with the book and having the scenes unfold from that, would be fantastic. Meanwhile you should open it up for yourself.
All images below courtesy of Yale University Press
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