A Visit to the House of Ivan Sayers

Photos and writing by Dianna Drahanchuk

Visitors to Ivan’s house, even if they’ve been there several times, never get bored. Ivan happily shows his guests through his house describing his 50 plus year’s worth of collections. Here, and there and there and around this corner, is his library of fashion and textile books dating back to 1798. He’s even collected obscure items like mail order catalogues, books on fashion philosophy, ethnic underwear, 30’s fashion from Brazil, etc. He has fashion magazines including most Vogue editions going back to 1915 and even the local 2010 edition of “Vancouver Fashion” magazine edited and produced by writer, Marilyn Wilson shown below. He intends to have Marilyn sign it at her book signing on February 19, at Kapade Boutique, #101-440 West Hastings, see her website. The trunk functions as his coffee table (Ivan bakes really good cookies) and contains a collection he acquired from a Japanese/Scottish donor with artifacts dating from the 1920-40’s, including dresses she wore in a concentration camp in WW2.

Upstairs, the hallway is crammed with Edwardian items dating from 1892 to 1921. One bedroom he calls the ‘modern' room is chock a block full of 20’s and 30’s pieces. The other 'modern modern’ bedroom is equally full of 40’s and 50’s articles. He’s been collecting so long that he has outlasted other collectors and has been reacquiring items he sold or traded to them years ago and is glad to have them back again. From these two rooms, he selects clothing and accessories for the various themed live model fashion shows he presents about once a month. He proudly announces that he has already been booked for a show in 2022 for the International Jane Austen Society convention to be held in Victoria. 

Downstairs again, he gives us a sneak preview of his upcoming “Wearing of the Green” show as he whips out a frilly sequinned concoction recently donated to him. Since every garment has a story, I wonder what this one will tell. The show is a fund raising event for the Marpole Community Museum on March 16, 1:30 pm at St. Augustine Parish Hall located at 8680 Hudson Street. Check Ivan’s website for this and upcoming shows.

History, Fashion, Design: Parker McIntosh Historical Tailor/Historical Reproductions

I have watched Parker at many SMOC events, which he usually attends dressed in his own period menswear, including top hats and canes, all made by him. I have also heard him (the very youngest speaker) talk about researching, searching out vintage fabric and tailoring the clothing and accessories here.

He is a young man of many talents, and I was very fortunate to interview him, April 4, at his home, where the magical design process takes place, and where most of his collections are stored. He enjoys collecting and making, both which he began early in his life. He says he always knew he wanted to make things and began with historical schooners like the Bluenose, looking at models, then visually taking them apart, making his own patterns and constructing from them. He wanted his mom, Melanie, to make elaborate Halloween costumes. He wore pith helmets and adored Sherlock Holmes.  He loved Woodworking classes and says that wood can be more forgiving than wool. He made a series of Harry Potter like wands, some of which he sold for a buyer's Harry Potter themed wedding. Entrepreneur, Historian, Collector, Tailor, all round Maker, he is a man of many talents. He even sources his vintage material, hand dyes and even adds adjustments to make items easier to wear today. He added a loop to his vintage ties so that they can be added to the top shirt button, instead of having to be hand tied.

Parker recreates and lives history. For five days a year, for Brigade Days, at the  Fort Langley Historic Site, he lives in a tent to show how life was during the Fur Trade days. He created all the clothing, equipment. including tent poles and snow shoes and many other artifacts that provide an accurate picture of the times. He volunteers at Hastings Sawmill Museum and recently helped organize a very popular Easter Egg hunt there. He says that is important to teach history, especially Canadian history, and to make it accessible through authentic period costume and setting reproduction. History, economics, politics, culture, geography...so much is revealed through fashion and the photos, illustrations and patterns that go hand in hand with it.

Parker has a collection of early Canadian songs, but also loves Gilbert and Sullivan, especially the Mikado, and I can see him designing and staging for musicals. He says that it all starts with history and then everything comes together through that.

What shapes an amazing talent like this? Family interest in history and travel and lots of nurturing of special interests from a very young age. Mom, Melanie wanted to be an illustrator. She is an Instructor of Fashion Merchandising/Marketing, as well as a collector of vintage sewing machines. It is all in the family, the history, the collecting, the learning and the making. I asked them to pose together, holding favorite pieces. Melanie is holding a 1956 Singer Featherweight Sewing Machine and Parker is holding a tailor's square, antique naturally.

 Ivan Sayers and Parker McIntosh in Top Hat and Tails

The antique manuals Parker uses for reference

Parker measuring for the next piece to this vintage cotton skirt.

He will make and add a bustle too.

Parker crafted these wooden Harry Potter Wands 

Punch Magazine's version of Canadian Winter Wear.

Parker has made all of this, including the snowshoes.

 Parker made this coat from vintage blanket material.

 Parker's McIntosh clan plaid, which he sources and adapts

 Parker made the cedar chest and will

soon find a use for this antique wool blanket

Parker and his mom, Melanie with two of their favourite collectibles.

Han Couture, Traditional Chinese Culture and Ivan Sayers: Fashions Reflecting China's Contributions to Dress and Fashion

February 25th found us at the Vancouver Public Library for another fabulous SMOC event: Han Couture, a history of traditional Chinese Culture and Ivan Sayers presenting dresses and accessories from his collection and showing China's huge contribution to dress and fashion. Ivan always focuses on historical and cultural influences that shape fashion. His dresses for this presentation, were examples of how traditional forms were purchased, made, copied, recycled, upcycled and adapted so that they become a meld as well as a reflection of the influence of world travel and culture brought to Canada and becoming the multicultural mix we know today.

The Han Couture presentation was beautiful, displaying traditional dress for women and men. There is a resurgence of this, today, around the world. Silk, a Chinese invention, for years a closely guarded secret, is still in high demand for its luminescence, color, fit, light weight and luxurious feel. Silk, was a status symbol, especially embroidered with symbols of power, nature, visual records of tradition. The tea ceremony was performed in exquisite detail, with table setting, and the sequence of preparation and pouring, and we could see the steam and smell a faint aroma of Oolong. Magic! China's history was presented with accompanying visuals: maps, dynasties, dragons, chrysanthemums and traditional dress. Transported to China and then seeing it in what the audience wore: jade, cheongsams, hair accessories, embroidered jackets; people dress up to come to SMOC events!

Big thanks to Sue Zhang who proposed this event in collaboration with SMOC. To Cora Yu who has studied ancient musical instruments and played beautifully the Gu Qin for the tea ceremony.

To Tracey Wang who performed the Traditional Chinese Tea Ceremony, as she does daily, in her tea shop in China and to Cathy Tan who described each step of the ceremony for our event.

Finally to Brett Featherstone-Price who researched extensively, the history of Han Fu and presented it so thoroughly!

Old is News - Acquisitions to the Collections of SMOC and Ivan Sayers

On Sunday, January 21, Ivan Sayers hosted a live fashion show from his most recently acquired dresses and accessories. At the same time, he discussed items from the display of pieces from the SMOC collection. These are stored at Hycroft and as per museum collections, are displayed rather than modelled. Here are a few of my favourite outfits. You will notice a raspberry colored dress in the display behind the models. Claus Jahnke, also a clothing collector, found it online, miscategorised as a 1930's costume, when actually, the material is 1700's and upcyled to an 1800's dress. So very, very, vintage, indeed.

From a local family estate this year, this feather boa/vest compliments 

the long look. empire waist dress but also emphasizes the face. 

Women were going after the vote, so lots of focus on brain and 

physical strength.

From Victoria, cotton dress for the mature woman, 

1910, hat is straw and hand woven

From Winnipeg. 1923 Rayon Crepe de Chine, beaded handbag, 

long silhouette, tubular, shift shape to echo the ancient world. 

A dark, Moorish look.

From Kamloops, 1937-41 silk velvet, emerald green, skirt cut on 

bias, to float

From Calgary, 1946 fur coat, rayon crepe synthetic, shoulder pads, 

fairly limited decoration, machine made, turban hat practical for 

keeping hair out of machinery - working woman, big handbag for 

carrying essentials for work

American dress, California, jungle print importance of Hawaii (WW2), 

A-Line, short skirt for full stride and ease of movement, function over 

form, seamed stockings, hat from Salvation Army on 12th, Vancouver

Pink Wedding dress from Vancouver. Rayon Taffeta, feminine, 

made here, figure accentuated, ornamental frills, especially 

on cuffs = indulgence. PS Ivan thinks every bride looks 

wonderful at her wedding.

1958 Gladstone Secondary (Vancouver) Grad Dress, sweet, lovely, 

romantic princess. Plexi glass purse.

Garage sale find late 60's early 70's wedding look that can be worn 

separately or as one. Rayon-Polyester, flat shoes or Go Go boots.

Fabulous clothing and accessories seem to find their way to Ivan Sayers, Claus Jahnke and SMOC. It is an ongoing Education to learn about the origins of each piece and see how culture, history, economics, and, especially, the role of women, all reflected through fashion.

Everyone dresses up for SMOC and I spotted some gorgeous accessories, this time. Dianna wore a Ukranian pin, ceramic over wood. Judy word her Grandmother's garnet and silver pin. All special and certainly in keeping with the theme of vintage glam. I am very interested in seeing more of these and having some illustrations done of them. Will pursue this idea with some of our fabulous multi talented volunteers. Any one else who would like to work with me on this?

I have been learning about Fashion History from Ivan Sayers, for many years, now. Still fabulous after all these years! If you want to attend more events by Ivan, you can find them at Smoc.ca. See the first post here.

Welcome to The Rising Hemlines Exhibit at Mackin House, Heritage Museum, Coquitlam

On December 9th, we celebrated the opening of the exhibit: Rising Hemlines, a multi room display of the roaring twenties clothing, accessories, and the household as it would have looked in Coquitlam and in many other places, at that time. This exhibit is on until March 3, 2018 and has been written about in great detail by Janis Cleugh of the TriCityNews, here. 

And just before Christmas, the fireplace was on, Christmas tree was decorated (charming crochet ornaments are by Connie Tsoukalas) staff and volunteers dressed in 20's fashions welcomed us with tours, a fabulous appetizer feast and live music. Jasmine Moore, Curator, worked with Ivan Sayers on this fabulous exhibit and clothing and accessories came from his collection, with additional pieces from Claus Jahnke's collection. Their philosophy: "Embrace the old, innovate on the new, make it your own."

Ann Carlsen, President of The Coquitlam Heritage Society, introduced us to the changing role of women during the 20's and to the importance of preserving and sharing that history, especially locally, as it happened in the area. Jasmine Moore, Curator, talked about her role in creating the exhibit and setting the historical scenes. Ivan Sayers, Fashion Historian, owner of the largest Canadian collection of clothing and accessories 1800's +++the discussed the working woman, the voting woman, the woman freed from the confines of bustles, the woman increasingly aware of the larger world and travel, the woman in the technological world, and more.

This was a highly interactive and fascinating event, a must see! Up and coming events by the Coquitlam Heritage Society and Mackin House here.

Thanks to all for fantastic company and kudos for the hard work in putting this together!

Superman - The Golden Age - by Adrien Vanviersen at SMOC Oct. 29.2017

It was a great idea for SMOC to pair Adrien Vanviersen, StoryBoard Artist,(X2, X3, Game of Thrones) film maker and Superman expert, and Ivan Sayers, Fashion Historian and collector, to talk about and show the evolution of the superhero and his contemporaries and the costumes and clothing of each time period. People were eager to share their love of Superman, the movies, the comics, past and present. Many of the women liked Wonder Woman and Lois Lane because they were strong, capable, achievers. Lynn put the whole outfit together, right down to that belt buckle and those bracelets. Kathryn P. Hammerton, VCC Fashion Design Student and Illustrator, loved Wonder Woman for being a woman and for having her own tv series. Janet made her own costume from a Simplicity pattern and found the fabric in NYC. She likes that Super Woman was always on the side of right. Rhonda's mom was a textile artist and both she and Rhonda have made a lot of costumes, just as Superman's mom made his. And speaking of costumes, it is Ivan's super human collecting abilities that bring us clothing that each Superman, family, friends and cast would have worn during each incarnation.

Simon, is a Superman and comic book fan. (Classic Comics, right) He likes the resilience of the human spirit and the strength of Superman's character. David likes The Flash - a fast guy, for sure.

Beckie likes the Marvel Wonder Woman movies. Photographer, Billy, admires Batman  for his independent spirit, for the ability to get things done on his own, and for his use of technology to get out of sticky situations. Dianna likes the costumes of the women supporting Superman. The first photo is of an outfit that Ivan says, early Superman's mom would have worn in the kitchen, while making his dinners or sewing his costumes. So many people had a twinkle in their eye and a lot of stories about their favourite Super Heroes. The door prize was, fittingly, a pair of Pez candy holders, Superman and Wonder Woman, of course.

Find out much more about Superman by watching The Origin of the Secret Identity in the Golden Age, a free fan comic at adrienvanviersen.com and adrienvanviersen.tumblr.com  So much you didn't know about Superman. So much grand illustration and story boarding.

And here's what they said:

Superman: "Easy, Miss, I've got you."

Lois Lane: "You, you've got me? Who's got you?"