FAUNA IN FASHION - The Exploitation of Animals for Beauty

Written by Colleen Tsoukalas (Treasure Seeker Colleen)

This is the third in a series of exhibition talks in the Invoking Venus - Feathers and Fashion Series at the Beaty.  Lectures are on topics that arise out of  the photo-based images by Catherine Stewart and clothing and accessories from the private collection of Claus Jahnke and Ivan Sayers.

Photos by Connie T

Ivan began by talking about the three coats he had on display: an Ocelot (Leopard) knee length fur, one of Monkey Fur (1960) and a full length Mink.  The bottom of the Mink unzipped to become a stole for the neck and shoulders, to keep the wearer warm after the rest of the coat was in the coat check.  Ivan asked us to imagine how many animals it took to make each of these coats.  He also referenced the long history of the popularity of fur in fashion.  In the 13th and 14th centuries, the grey squirrel fur was much in demand and later, sable, fox, and marten were coveted.  It took several hundred to make a cloak and 1,400 to make a counterpane (bed cover) and envision Henry the 8th, wearing a floor length piece that took over 350 pelts to make him look his 'regal' majesty.  Oh and don't forget about raccoon coats and beaver fur hats that came later.

And fur is not the only material that is exploited.  Crocodile hides make purses and belts, elephant tusks provide ivory for jewelry and even false teeth.  Tigers' claws are also seen as exotic forms of jewelry. Red coral, sea shells, whale bone - is nothing safe?  No, think about the popularity of feathers  How about 170,000 birds' feathers exported and imported for hats?  Ostrich feathers were invaluable for those massive hats of the early 20th century.  Picture an ostrich feather hat with two birds on top of it all.

This was a lively presentation with slides and a table full of vintage treasures.  But even though we admire the color, design, style and fabulous array, we must also ask: At what price beauty?

The last session: HATCHED, MATCHED AND DISPATCHED, the Clothing Rituals of Birth, Marriage and Death, is Sat. May 4th at 2:00, with Ivan Sayers.  This series is a fine example of partnerships between the Arts and Sciences!  It just might make one of the most interesting afternoons you've had in a long time.

Kudos to Yukiko Stranger-Jones, Exihibits Manager, for her friendly welcome and introduction to Ivan Sayers.  The exhibits and the concept behind this particular series - spectacular!  Loved the new technology and one to one support for the presenter.  A special camera projected all of the table display items on a big screen - rather like the ones used in the Rolling Stones concerts that allow every audience member to see the 'exhibits' really up close.  All those feathers, all those colors, all of that wonderful display that is is so vividly visual!