Saturday, January 14, 2012

Fashion's Olio Folio: A History of Women's Chic Accessories: 1770-1970

Written by Treasure Seeker Colleen

The first session of Ivan Sayers' new Jan.-Feb. course has started at SFU downtown Vancouver!  Umbrellas and Parasols was our subject and next week, we'll be learning about shawls, capes and other 'coverings'.  Ivan will be displaying a collection of women's clothing throughout history, beginning March 7, 2012 at the Vancouver Museum so watch for that excellent exhibit!  What I love about any Sayers event is that he not only brings the clothing and accessories but also has the matching slides, print resources and of course, period mannequins and professional models.  But really, something else fascinating is that where ever he goes, an avid following of fashionistas, artists, collectors, photographers and friends follow him.  So whether it be a course or a fundraiser, or an exhibit, when you go, you'll always be among friends.

Jacques-Joseph Tissot

The difference between an umbrella and a parasol is that the umbrella protects from the rain and the parasol shades one from the sun.  Both can be practical, beautiful, class defining, intriguing and effective weapons.  They are always reflective of history, culture and economic times.  Although the parasol is usually more whimsical, lacy, flounced and decorative, the umbrella, especially in black, can be chic: think Gene Kelly, "Singing in the Rain". Umbrellas, tightly rolled, long and slim could make one look sporty and tall, something I will definitely think about as I hoist mine against the grey mists of Vancouver.
Ivan mentioned a couple of book titles:" The History of the Umbrella" and "400 Years of Fashion" and I found "It's About Time: On The History of Parasols and Umbrellas" at bjws.blogspot.com .  Also found an umbrella and parasol museum in Gignese.  You can find all sorts of both available for purchase online, too. Currently in our closet, we have a giant navy and burgundy soldier that sheltered us at many rainy soccer games, a small, white one with a wooden duck handle, (that nobody ever wants to take) and the classic, slim, black one that we guard carefully because, of course, everyone wants one that looks good with everything.  (and works reliably)

Monet

Ivan always wears his white gloves when he unwraps the treasures he brings.  Think we should get a picture of him with a top hat, (yes he has a collection of hats, too) and a black umbrella, just to add to the Umbrella/Parasol presentation?  Each artifact is labelled as to when and where it was purchased.  When you go to a museum or gallery, you see the collection but in the Sayers courses and events, you meet the curator/collector, too. 
Early umbrellas/parasols had whalebone (from the mouth of the whale) handles and spokes but with the invention of steel, 1850's,  thankfully that changed.  Parasols often lasted longer than umbrellas because they didn't get wet or mildewed and you can see how those with whalebone, ivory, gold, silver would be very valuable today.

Pierre Auguste Renoir

People were looking for the exotic; they could show that they had enough money to buy imported fashions and that perhaps they had even travelled to far off places, like the Orient.  Also, women could stay pale (lily white) and fragile (beauty by impairment) and had the time to be out enjoying the country air rather than slaving all day. That special umbrella and parasol could make them stand out in a crowd, no matter that one might have to manage huge dresses, tall hair and hats, at the same time.
Parasols got smaller, as skirts got bigger in the 1830-40's.  The idea that women were delicate and fragile, was perpetuated. Collapsible handles and rings on top, made parasols somewhat more manageable, but at the same time, probably these innovations made it easier for women to always have to have this additional accessory.
In the 1860's parasol handles got shorter and stubbier as skirts got more complicated.  Bright blue was a popular colour as were intricate designs and beading.  While there were many hand made products, machine made designs were available.
1880's brown damask with flowers was all the rage.  1895-1905 - satin and silk, layered and flounced parasols matched the colour of the dress.   This was the Gibson Girl look.  Handles on umbrellas and parasols became more exotic: nymphs, cats, birds, dogs and more.
1905  Empire Revival - high waist, slim body and revival of all things exotic and oriental.  Japanese influence could be seen in Pagoda shaped parasols, hand painted, bamboo handles - unchanged until WW1

Pierre Auguste Renoir
Images via 19th Century Women

After WW1 - umbrella rolled up was referred to as a 'stick' and not a cane.  Women strong, had the right to vote.  More practical material and less of it due to war time shortages.
Modern day reflections: Umbrellas as advertising, umbrellas as hats, both as house and store decorations, umbrellas and parasols to guard against the sun - umbrellas attached to bikes and dogs, lots of searching for antiques probably a reaction to over use of plastics and mass production.  Still an interest in travel evidenced by maps, flags and other symbols and icons.  Japanese and Chinese designs readily available.  Everyone has access now but so many people that it can be dangerous to walk in crowded places.  Umbrellas not replaced by hoods - still a fashion statement.  (No one wants to carry the duck umbrella!!!!)

Jacques-Joseph Tissot

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